The Legends of the Externsteine

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Geographic Coordinates: 51° 52' 8.00" N, 8° 55' 3.00" E

The famous Externsteine rocks can be found between the town of Horn in Lippe-Detmold and the city of Paderborn. These are also called the “Eggestersteine” by the common people, allegedly because magpies build their nests in the highest of these rocks, and hatch their young where nobody can reach them.(1) They do not rise up on a mountain, but on a level field. It is impossible that they have been transported there by human hands, and most likely they ended up there from an upheaval of the ground. This may have been triggered by the flooding of the surrounding sandy hills, which were washed away until only these rocks were left behind. They are sandstone rocks of a height of 100-125 feet, and some of these rocks are studded with chambers.

During the time of Saint Boniface, they were the center of Germanic Heathenism, and the Romans captured during the defeat of Varus were killed on the sacrificial altars found within. This was turned into a Christian chapel during the time of Charlemagne, which was mentioned in records as early as the 11th century. Two centuries later, these rock abodes were the homes of hermits, and represented a way station between the monasteries in Werden and Helmstedt. The gargantuan reliefs carved into the rocks probably date back to this period, which, in a manner, document the victory of Christianity over Heathenism. The Descent of the Cross and its iconography, which can be found on the outermost surface, is probably the oldest stone relief of the Christian period which we have in Germany, and it is also of great significance due to its composition and excellent craftsmanship. Several legends exist of these rocks, which are as follows.

When Charlemagne introduced Christianity to all of Germany by force of arms, in the end only the Duke of the Saxons and his kin resisted him. But the force of this champion of Heathenism finally weakened, and his power shrank from day to day. Then, one night, the Devil appeared before him, and promised him to build a heathen temple which would be so massive that the strong Charlemagne would have to leave it in place. And all who were still faithful to the old gods should rally around it in unity. Furthermore, even many of the newly converted would return to the fold, for the Christian faith had only taken weak root in their hearts. And the Devil assured him that, in exchange, he wanted nothing more than that Widukind and his people should never forsake the faith of their fathers! The Duke gladly agreed to this, and, in exchange, the Devil promised to complete the construction on the next night of the full moon.

But from that moment on, the arms of Duke Widukind were marvelously victorious against Emperor Charlemagne, and his followers increased day after day. In this manner, the time of the full moon arrived, and the Devil began his work. He fetched gargantuan rocks from all the ends of the world, and stacked them on top of each other to form vaults and halls of a staggering size. But when the giant temple was almost finished, God gave Widukind a change of heart so that he recognized his own madness. Hurriedly he went into the camp of his enemy Charlemagne, and repentantly let himself be baptized. When the Devil became aware of this, he assaulted the temple with great anger, and ripped pillars and walls and gables apart, scattering the rocks all over the landscape.

These are the Eggestersteine rocks, which can still be seen gray and weathered at the entrance to the Teutoburg Forest. On the heights of one of these stones, there is an abode with a stone for sacrifices, which the Devil might have forgotten to destroy. When the heathen temple had become a Christian chapel, and a mighty cross had been hewn into the rock face, a small bell on the summit of the rock called the faithful to prayer, and thousands of people streamed to this place of grace.

But the Devil, who had been so upset that he had not visited this place for a long time, one day desired to revisit his old stomping grounds. He thus roared through the air from afar towards the Extersteine. However, he became aghast when he saw from from a distance how a priest stood before the altar of the chapel in prayer, surrounded by a large, worshiping congregation. Then, in his wrath and rage, he grabbed a mighty rock and threw it precisely into the gorge so that it ought to crush the priest. The stone immediately rushed forwards with the speed of the wind. But the priest, who saw it coming, held the cross up high in front of the chapel. And the flight of the stone was arrested, it stood still, and suddenly rested on top of a rough cliff face. In response, the Devil — who knew very well who had bound the stone to the spot — gnashed his teeth and flew away in impotent rage. But this stone still hangs up there in the heights, and appears as if it is about to fall. Indeed, when the wind blows strongly, it will move. Nevertheless it hangs up there, for He who stuck it there will not let it plummet. However, the people in the region tell that, one day, it will crush a countess of Lippe.

Another legend tells that the Devil had wanted to topple these rocks when the devotion of the pilgrims was still in full swing. Thus, he braced himself against the rocks with all force, but he was unable to topple them. But he nevertheless heaved so much that his posterior has made a deep impression into the stone, as it can still be seen today. Furthermore, a flame emerged from his back, and this flame left a scorched spot on the rock. But this spot is no longer visible, as it has been covered by soil and shrubbery.

(1) According to Kuhn, “Westphäl. Sagen” p. 225, this name derives from Agi, Egi — that is to say, snake or dragon — and refers to a wild stream pouring down from the mountains.

Source: Grässe - Sagenbuch des preussischen Staats - Erster Band, p. 733f